No.9 | A WINTER IN VENICE
off season weekend in one of Europe's most beloved cities.
Having never bothered to google, I boarded the train from Bologna to Venice for the weekend, and on my itinerary was one thing and one thing only whilst in Venice; see one of the most intriguing works of art, one of those ‘see before you die’ works of art that is much talked about yet not enough is known about. I got off Centrale, walked to my hotel, distracted by tourists and their touristings, the many shops lining the canal and the chatter all around. Venice is like that you know, it sweeps you in on sight of her. A good half hour later, checked in and refreshed, I left my hotel and made my way along the canal with one destination in mind Gallerie Accademia to see Da Vinci’s Vitruvian Man, this its home after all. I figured I would pop in spend two hours before it and leave to grab dinner, never forgetting it. That was the plan, but we all know how to make God laugh right? Tell him all your plans? On arrival I kindly asked one of the museum staff where the masterpiece was located and he very kindly smiled and told me it was not on display… say what? How is a work of art not on display, its art! In a museum! But ever so serenely and still kindly he informed me that it can only be viewed by appointment; this was not his first rodeo. I asked how I could make an appointment to see it and he told me something akin to calling someone to call someone to raise Da Vinci’s mother to ask him to let me see it… not quite as tedious, but it might as well have been. Sigh. I actually did sigh.
And so, I am still waiting, hoping it comes out of hiding for one day and I will be there to see it in its full glory. If only I’d googled to know that it comes out on occasion; google is free, is my mission statement. It is not even my favourite work of his, but something about it, I would add its elusiveness now, makes me even more determined to one day see it.
Venice, our story is not over yet. Not by a long shot.
Venice in the Winter has to be one the most deeply romantic places on the planet. It's a rarity. While nothing about a summer in Venice appeals to me, the winter however, is utterly beguiling. The summers are much too hot, much too crowded, much too expensive, and much too impersonal. I am a fan of off-season travel don't you know. Early October to Early December; no crowds, if there are, it is minimal. Late January to early March; perfection. Because in spring and summer, London cannot be beat. Venice in winter bring us the most beautiful of sunsets, most glorious of moonlights with a moon dancing on the surface of a restful Canal and an atmosphere so utterly divine.
It is cold, don't get me wrong, but it is oh so joyful and the vibe in St Mark's Square is quite the charm, even as the square floods on occasion, swarming the feet of chairs and tables set for diners on the square; it’s so typically venetian.
Andiamo!
Legend will have you believe that Venice is best explored on water, I beg to differ because once you've been on the grand canal from the airport to the hotel, you've had your fill of the lot. Forego the Gondolas after one or two rides, and step to.
Venice... it is drowning not only in water but with people. Each season the crowd is relentless in their bid to get a little bit of that Venetian Dolce Vita. It is no fault of theirs, blame Venice for being so irresistibly enchanting, and intoxicating. It is a place truly distinguished.
Venice is a place one must go in their lifetime and in the winter, her magic truly comes alive. The sound of Venice is the water, that big sexy beast that welcomes one and all; it is not a hard sound or a trickling sound, it’s a gentle lull and for something so grand, true to its name, it is humbling. It laps on its banks and bobs away. Gondolas and water taxis whip up the sediments that never seem to settle, a soft splash and then back to centre. It is unique to it. And here is where we get to be both clichés and travellers, its Venice after all, the cliché will be enacted we will stop by Harry’s for the unique pleasure of letting the world know we have had a Bellini in the place where it was created hence we are now part of its legacy. Stop at Basilica San Marco, tour the inside, see the treasures of St Marks and the Pala D’Oro that was stolen from Constantinople; was it stolen or was it given? Who knows, but here they lay, so go see them. Lay low here for a bit and if it’s too busy when you visit head on over to San Zanipolo, one of the most impressive churches you will ever step inside. I love visiting churches anytime I travel because it gives sanctuary and grounds one to the root of a place, so I visit as many as I can on my tour around the world.
THE SHORT STOP:
EAT:
Pasticerria Rosa Salva; Pastries and Ice Cream. Really good.
Rizzardini: fantastic patisserie in San Polo, want a traditional bite for breakfast, and a coffee venetian style? Go here. Nearby the Rialto bridge, it is perfection and you know how I feel about baked goods.
Harry's Bar; Cliché? Yes, but what is life in Venice if you do not at least stop in this institution from time to time. It is a must. Besides, the BEST Bellini in the entire world is to be found here. NO CONTEST. And I agree with this much shared sentiment.
Cafe Florian; I had a croissant and diet coke here I think for ten euros but still go for the absolute vibe of it. Despite being one of those places, it is still a perfect place to visit, it maintains that panache that very unique thing that makes it an institution.
Locanda Cipriani in Torcello; this may be heaven on earth and the place you have that one meal in Venice.
Trattoria Al GattoNero, Burano; Pricey but so, so good it has become a pilgrimage with each visit to Venice. If it is warm enough, sit outside by the water for an absolutely glorious time.
Trattoria Da Romano, Burano: open from late winter, February, through to the autumn, this place is incredible, and you are in Burano surrounded by the most storied and romantic of scenes; its doubly perfect.
Rossopomodoro Venezia: you want pizza? This may be the best pizza you will ever try. Whilst I am not a pizza connoisseur, I will acquiesce to this sentiment because it is so good.
Nevodi: it’s a poke in the wall, cheek by jowl perfection if you eat in one restaurant the entire weekend long, eat here and only here.
Cicetti: eat this everywhere you go it is a Venetian tradition; like tapas is to Spain. But if you have to eat it somewhere then eat it at Al Merca.
Ristorante Al Covo; An exceptional place to eat, you’d never know its Michelin star because the unfussed ambience but don’t be fooled service and food here are always exceptional.
The Gritti Palace; Of course this is that, “if you only dine in one place places.” Club del Doge or the Terrace in the warmer months will do.
Harry's Dolci; Just for comparison purposes. But also, only from Spring through to Autumn and if you are here in the spring, something about this place makes your heart sing.
PLAY:
Peggy Guggenheim Museum: this is one of the most impressive museums around, with an even more impressive story of an even more so impressive woman. Absolutely MUST visit.
Day trip to the islands; Murano and Burano; do play tourist and buy some glass beads or a vase or shot glasses. Also eat somewhere here, there are plenty of places to do just that; one of which hosted Mother Teresa. I kid you not; her picture is in the window.
Art: Do not leave without some local art.On the mouth of the village in Burano is a local artist, go in there and buy some water colour.
Day trip to Bologna to eat some of the best foods in the country because Bologna has the most incredible restaurants and is in the Emilia Romagna region of Italy that is famed for the best food. Listen to the podcast episode on Bologna for my recommendations.
St Mark's Basilica; it is as imposing the first time as it is on the second and third and subsequent other visits. But don't just linger outside go indoors there is much history to be had inside.
Ditch the navigation, walk around and properly get lost in Venice; Especially on a Sunday; it hits different.
Blow Glass: Simone Cenedese is a foremost glass blowers in Murano, possibly the world and his glass-blowing masterclass experience is something you should most certainly do, time permitting. Glass blowing is such a particular craft, for something so fragile to be forged by a process so detail and exacting yet one that invites you to use your own intuition to shape and mould.
If time does not permit and you are in Venice later this year, there is the Biennale from April to November and Le Stanze Del Vetro is a glass museum you should visit during the festival. The multi-year project is housed in a permanent exhibition space on the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore and you can visit anytime outside of the Biennale; dedicated to preserving the art of the glass as it were, the traditions and stories passed down and to keep it in the conversation around art and what constitutes it.
Prints and things: to know me is to know that I love stationery with an unhealthy amount of passion therefore I will go into most every stationery shop there is but one of my favourite is Veneziastampa in the heart of Venice; an old printing press and typography shop. FONTS ARE IMPORTANT and I spend an inordinate amount of time thinking about fonts, even as I type this on Californian FB, one of the most impractical yet attractive fonts. I lean more towards Candara, but I do not like how the parenthesis and question mark figure on that font. Times new roman is a bore, Georgia used to be my go to then I discovered Avenir which was me for a time but it is too… round. I love a serif. And that’s me done with my nerding out. But if you are like me and you like all things stationery including fonts, go to Venezia Stampa where tradition is preserved and mastery exhibited. Buy the postcards and prints and keepsakes from here.
Gianni Basso Stampatore: I love stationery and any shop that has it will draw me in; I am like a magpie when it comes to paper, pens, pencils, sharpeners, print presses, the works and it is no surprise that I am ALWAYS and forever drawn to Mr Basso’s store in Venice. It is all things magical, and I don’t even care that most everyone knows about it, they should! its heavenly in here and no one is gatekeeping anything. You want custom print full suite of stationery; you’re in the right place. Pre-printed works? In the right place. Business cards, wedding invitations, correspondence cards… the list goes on and you are in the right place.
Pro tip: if you want your prints custom, then visit on arrival, day 1 and collect before you depart home. Also he has a museum next door where you may simply just want to stay… did I tell you this place is magical? Because it is.
STAY:
Hotel Serenissima |Calle Goldoni, 4486, 30124 Venezia VE, Italy
The Gritti Palace | Campo Santa Maria del Giglio 2467, Veni
Ca Maria Adele | Dorsoduro 111 - 30123 Venezia Italia
Hotel Flora | SAN MARCO 2283/A - 30124 Venezia, Italy
PACKING LIST:
It’s the winter, so none of that pack light, yes it might be the med? Is this part the med? But it is still cold because you are still surrounded by water so pack right, not light.
Jeans: best boyfriend jeans from M&S. Fact.
Knits: two three grey and navy knits; I am particular about knitwear colours; grey, navy, a particular shade of caramel, black of course but for the purposes of a weekend in Venice, pack three at best.
Thermals: did I say it is cold?
Socks: see aforementioned reason but also socks should mostly be worn in shoes. In the summer that’s debatable, I typically do not like wearing socks in my trainers, I always air them out so I suppose its a do as I say type thing going on here. And you should.
Walking shoes: hey, over there, at the back, yes you, listen to me: SAMBAS ARE NOT WALKING SHOES. Take that from someone who has a few pairs, these things will give you blisters, they are not walking shoes and we are going to do some walking on this weekend away. Brogues are perfect walking shoes, take it from someone who has worked in a shoe shop. Walking trainers are also perfect; NOT SAMBAS.
The rest is as you like it.
Have a good weekend away if you get to it and come back here and tell me all about it.